Senin, 18 Mei 2015

 SURABAYA FASHION PARADE 2015 - REVIEW





Ibu Risma tentang SFP 2015 


Universitas Ciputra Fashion Show Present for SFP 2015




After Party on 2nd May, Response


FASHION DESIGNER AWARD



JOIN IN COMPETITION, DESIGNER AWARD YOUNG CATEGORY







Danjyo Hiyoji on SFP 2015







Dalam SFP 2015, Danjyo Hiyoji mengambil inspirasi salah satunya yaitu unsur elemen air yang terinspirasi dari Indonesia kepulauan maritim karena Indonesia merupakan negara maritim terbesar. Ada 3 bagian yang menjadi inspirasi dalam koleksi yaitu Laut, Bugis, Kapal Pinisi. Warna navy menggambarkan warna maritim, hijau menggambarkan indonesia sendiri secara keseluruhan dan warna biru muda itu menggambarkan laut itu sendiri. Kapal Pinisi mengambil layarnya beberapa layer –layer di dalam piecenya. Dari 3 yang paling menonjol adalah bugis walaupun bukan secara kain, mengambil tradisinya dan koin bugis. Tidak ada batasan baik gender maupun usia.























Dari unsur bugis mengambil poin transgender.... point tersebut kita implementasikan dalam bentuk treatment print di baju, gender memang inspirasi gender yang ada di Bugis yaitu ada 5 gender yang mreka akui, laki-laki sebagai laki-laki, perempuan sebagai perempuan, laki-laki sebagai perempuan, perempuan sebagai laki-laki, aseksual/tidak ada jenis kelamin yang mengekspresikan koleksi dari Danjyo Hiyoji dari musim ke musim, dari situ Danjyo Hiyoji berharap seluruh koleksinya diterima oleh semua lapisan, baik itu secara umur ataupun dari gender yang nantinya akan keluar dari perspektif masing-masing, dan Look yang ditampilkan sebanyak  24 dengan 19 model yang terdiri dari 13 look perempuan dan 11 look laki-laki




Perkembangan Surabaya Fashion Parade 2015

Ivan Teguh, Fashion stylish yang memiliki ciri khas tersendiri dalam memperhatikan setiap style setiap orang dengan lebih memperhatikan cut out clean dan sophiscated. Dan arti fashion menurut Ivan adalah "This is me”, setiap orang punya style masing-masing, berdasarkan appereance dan kelihatan dari personality-nya seseorang serta styling yang mreka hasilkan. misalkan romantic bisa terlihat clean atau soft, fun, feminim. Style saya lebih mengarah ke layer dan over size, 
Untuk perkembangan Surabaya Fashion Parade ditahun  2015 ini menarik karena berkonsep tahun 50s, 60s, dan 70s. Namun sayangnya tidak semua designer mengikuti sesuai tema tersebut dan perlu banyak ide kreatifnya yang dikeluarkan dan tidak terlalu monoton seperti tidak bisa lepas dari batik dan bahkan hanya sedikit yang mengikuti tema dan yang lain kurang peduli sama tema.
Kesimpulannya dalam acara SFP 2015 ini dalam secara designer lebih bagus daripada kemarin dan guest designer juga lebih kreatif, booth ini mungkin lebih bagus namun kurang variatif.


The Campaign of Surabaya Fashion Parade 2015






Minggu, 17 Mei 2015

ChuanDo & Frey on L'Officiel Singapore

Coco Rocha by Chuando and Frey for L’officiel Singapore



The Project on 2014 - Kiko Mizuhara Cover Shoot on L'Officiel


ABOUT ChuanDo & Frey

"We put our best – my best and his best – when we are at peace. To be able to translate and convey our thoughts and vision into imagery that define who we are for the past 10 years, is really a big achievement.” – ChuanDo & Frey
With a discerning eye for details and aesthetics that translate into high-octane images – these are the qualities that best define ChuanDo and Frey’s approach to photography.
Moulded by an art school background and the youngest son of distinguished Asian painter Tan Tee Chie, ChuanDo’s journey into collaborating and creating arresting images with engineering graduate Frey began in 2006. 
The duo has been in the photography spotlight for 10 years now, and continue to make a mark in the field with regular work for international fashion titles such as Jalouse, Muse, Numéro & Numéro Homme (China),L’Officiel & L’Officiel Hommes (Singapore), Harper’s Bazaar (Singapore, China, Malaysia, and Thailand), Elle (Singapore, Spain and Czech) andArena (Singapore).
As one of their more notable works, ChuanDo and Frey shot the album cover and images for Janet Jackson’s 10th studio album Discipline in 2008.
The duo’s unique creative style has also shaped and coloured the projects of various local and international commercial clients including Louis Vuitton(Asia), L’Oréal, ION Orchard Singapore, Levi’s, Motorola, Las Vegas Sands Corp, Starhub Singapore, Far East Organisation and Tangs.

As keen supporters of social causes, ChuanDo and Frey have, through their works, actively contributing toward community intitiatives such asAction For Aids and the Breast Cancer Society

Starting Interview with People who Always Influence Your Life




Apa yang ingin mama mau dari aku jika saat dewasa nanti?
Tentunya mama ingin kamu dalam hal yang utama adalah berbakti pada orang tua dan menjadi orang yang baik, sebisa mungkin berguna bagi masyarakat, lalu untuk kedepannya nanti lulus kuliah dan berprofesi sebagai fashion designer.

Apa rencana mama untuk masa depanku?
Rencana mama untuk tetap membiayai kamu kuliah sampai lulus dan berencana untuk membuka usaha bersama dalam bidang fashion agar disaat mama pensiun nanti, mama bisa berwirausaha.

Bagaimana aku bisa menjadi seperti mama?
Caranya BE YOURSELF dan semua itu perlu pembelajaran sebelum resmi menjadi anggota keluarga dan hal yang terpenting adalah tanggung jawab, misalnya: pembagian tugas bersih-bersih rumah dan sudah 15 tahun mama membiayai saudara-saudaramu dan banyak orang yang mengatakan mama “superwoman” sebagai single parent dan semua itu harus survive dan sebelum memulai setiap kegiatan, kita harus selalu berdoa agar semuanya lancar.

Apa Kelebihan dan kekurangan mama? Lalu bagaimana caranya mama menangani kekurangan tersebut?
Untuk kelebihan, orang yang menilai karena menilai diri sendiri itu sulit kalau yang menilai bukan orang lain. Tetapi kebanyakan orang memandang  mama sebagai perempuan yang luar biasa, bisa apa aja, mulai dari nyetir sendiri, masak, membiayai kamu bertiga, dan semuanya serba bisa. Kekurangan mama adalah khawatir, karena kelebihan tersebut yang menonjol yang dapat berakibat pada anak-anak mama, karena sibuknya pekerjaan, anak-anak harus mandiri dan tidak tahu apa yang terjadi dalam lingkungan tanpa pengawasan.

Untuk menangani kekurangan tersebut mama lakukan dengan cara sering menelpon anak-anak mama, karena dengan teknologi sekarang, bisa memudahkan komunikasi dengan anak jarak jauh dan dulu belum ada gadget, mama lebih khawatir karena pada saat itu karena harga gadget mahal.   

Sabtu, 16 Mei 2015

HEAVENLY ROAD for EVERYONE, TIAN LU - Chinese Pop



There wasn't much unusual about this protest really but one thing I noticed was that the Chinese party seemed to take great pleasure out of blasting Chinese pop songs about Tibet at us! Maybe I just hadn't really noticed if they had done it before in the past but when the tune started to ring a bell I realised they were playing the official song that commemorated the opening of the railway to Tibet in 2006. The song was called "Tian Lu" and it was sung by Han Hong.


I've seen Tian Lu translated in different ways and now many singer used this song as cover to get the popularity, I guess it could be Sky Road or Heavenly Road.



Lyrics:

天路
Tian lu


清晨我站在青青的牧场
qing chen wo zhan zai qing qing de mu chang
看到神鹰披着那霞光
kan dao shen ying pi zhuo na xia guang
像一片祥云飞过蓝天
xiang yi pian xiang yun fei guo lan tian
为藏家儿女带来吉祥
wei cang jia er nv dai lai ji xiang
黄昏我站在高高的山岗
huang hun wo zhan zai gao gao de shan gang
看那铁路修到我家乡
kan na tie lu xiu dao wo jia xiang
一条条巨龙翻山越岭
yi tiao tiao ju long fan shan yue ling
为雪域高原送来安康
wei xue yu gao yuan song lai an kang
那是一条神奇的天路哎
na shi yi tiao shen qi de tian lu ai
把人间的温暖送到边疆
ba ren jian de wen nuan song dao bian jiang
从此山不再高路不再漫长
cong ci shan bu zai gao lu bu zai man chang
各族儿女欢聚一堂
ge zu er nv huan ju yi tang
黄昏我站在高高的山岗
huang hun wo zhan zai gao gao de shan gang
看那铁路修到我家乡
kan na tie lu xiu dao wo jia xiang
一条条巨龙翻山越岭
yi tiao tiao


IN ENGLISH TRANSLATION:

At dawn, I stand upon the green grassland
I see a magical eagle bathed in ruddy light
Like an auspicious cloud soaring through the blue sky
Bringing good luck to the Tibetan people
At dusk, I stand atop the tall mountain peak
I see the railway built to my hometown
A colossal dragon soaring through the mountains
Bringing prosperity to the snowy plateau
That is a magical Heaven's Road
Bringing the motherland's warmth to borderlands
Mountains are no longer high, journeys are no longer long
All ethnic groups unite as one
At dusk, I stand atop the tall mountain peak
I see the railway built to my hometown
A colossal dragon soaring through the mountains
Bringing prosperity to the snowy plateau
That is a magical Heaven Road
Bringing us to paradise on earth
Barley beer and butter tea will taste more sweet
Joyful songs echo in all directions
That is a magical Heaven Road
Bringing us to paradise on earth
Barley beer and butter tea will taste more sweet
Joyful songs echo in all directions

Joyful songs echo in all directions

Eve Arnold - Photographer


Eve Arnold's camera captured the gold beaded skullcap, glossed lips and lacquerred nails of a model backstage at a Lanvin show in 1977. Arnold rarely used studios; relying instead on natural light and her hand-held Nikon. Her work was always respectful and sympathetic to its subject, background details were never an afterbought - Arnold insisted. "you have to take advantage of the variables, it might be the smile, the gesture, the light. None of which you can predict. 'she took pictures of black women modelling in Harlem fashion shows in 1948 and continued the project for two years, until picture post published her story. As a result, she was offered a job as the first female stringer for the Magnum photos agency. A long friendship with Marilyn Monroe produced some of her best-known images. But Arnold's work covered a broad spectrum - ' everything from serious disaster to Hollywood hoop-la'.

 Marilyn Monroe by Eve Arnold. 
There are so many images of Marilyn, but there is something so vulnerable about this one. Love it!
 Marilyn Monroe in Nevada, 1961 (during the filming of John Huston's The Misfits). 
Photo: Eve Arnold.
 THE MISFITS (1961) - Marilyn Monroe hugs Eli Wallach on location in Nevada 
Photo by Eve Arnold



Zika Ascher - Textile Designer


In the long tradition of artists turning fabric designers, such as Dufy and Cocteau, the unmistakeable sketches of Henry Monroe  are applied to silk by Zika Ascher. This design, which combines screen printing with batik painting, was selected for use by Nina Ricci. When Vogue ask in 1962, 'which comes first, the chicken or the egg? The fabric or the fashion?', it could have had Ascher in mind. His innovative approach to fabrics revolutionized fashion from the 1940s. He started his own production company and silk-screen print works in London in 1942. In 1948 he approached artists such as Moore and Henri Matisse to design prints. His own inventive approach to textiles acted as a catalyst for fashion designers of that time: in 1952 his highly original large-scale floral prints were used by Dior and Schia[arelli, and in 1957 his shaggy mohair inspired Castillo to create huge enveloping coats.





1950s textile design by HENRY MOORE - probably produced by Zika Ascher.


Diana Vreeland - Editor


Diana Vreeland (29 Juli 1903 Paris, Prancis - 22 Agustus 1989 New York City), adalah seorang
yang luar biasa, karakter diri yang diciptakan beliau diubah melalui fashion.

Beliau merupakan seorang legendaris dalam mode yang berpengalaman dalam memimpin redaksi Vogue dan konsultan untuk Costume. Dia bergabung dengan Harper Bazaar pada
tahun 1936 selama 25 tahun. Selain itu, Dia bertanggung jawab dalam melahirkan karir banyak model & membangun tren didunia fashion yang tidak terhitung jumlahnya.


Dalam kehidupan keluarga, Ibunya adalah American beauty sedangkan ayahnya adalah
seorang bangsawan Inggris, Pada saat Diana berusia 20, ia menikah dengan bankir Reed Vreeland, dan mereka kemudian pindah ke London dan hidup mewah dengan uang $ 250.000 yang diwarisi dari neneknya untuk Diana. Lalu, ia menjadi terkenal karena memiliki
pribadi yang unik. Di Paris, Dia secara teratur dipasang oleh Coco Chanel dan mendirikan
sebuah bisnis pakaian. Beberapa tahun berikutnya, Diana pindah ke New York dan memulai
karir mengisi halaman Bazaar dengan penuh energi dan kegembiraan. Lalu, beliau juga
berpengalaman dalam Vogue magazine tetapi sayangnya, ia dipecat dariVogue pada
tahun 1971 karena terlalu  boros dalam mengirim model Veruschka ke Jepang

Dalam puncak karirnya, Diana telah melampaui fashion dengan visinya yang kuat yaitu tentang semangat dan kehidupan, tetapi tidak selalu tentang kebenaran.

The Eye Has To Travel Official Trailer





“ You don’t have to be born beautiful to be wildly attractive”

Elizabeth Arden - Cosmetic Creator


In one of Baron de Meyer's famous advertisements for Elizabeth Arden, a model resembling a figure from a Modigliani painting wears the Arden face. The name behind one of the century's greatest cosmetic houses was inspired by Tennyson's poem 'Enoch Arden' and a love of the name Elizabeth. Her real name was Florence Nightingale Graham and she worked as a beauty treatment girl for Eleanor Adair in New York where,





 in 1950, she opened her own salon on Fifth avenue with her sigmature red door. One of the first beauty gurus to encourage exercise, she opened a spa and health retreat in Maine in 1934, and was passionate about horses. Arden developed a range of make up for Hollywood that would not melt under the lights and was later used by women when they were out dancing. In 1935 she launched the legendary Eight Hour Cream, which remains to this day a cult beauty product.

 Elizabeth Arden makeup advertisement 1960's.
 1959 Elizabeth Arden was famous for her love of the color pink .


THE HISTORY OF ELIZABETH ARDEN'S MAKE UP






Arai Junichi - Textile Designer

Junichi arai has been described as the 'truly enfant terrible of japanese textiles.... a naughty boy playing with high-tech toys'. His favourited toys are the jacquard loom and digital computer. The fabric illustrated here is typical of his work,  which commonly uses metallic fibres and turns them into exquisite works of art destined only to be admired. The son and nephew of weavers, Arai was born in Kirya, A historic centre for textiles. He initially worked with his father on kimono and obi cloths, which he developed, eventually acquiring three-dozen patents for new fabrics. Form 1970 Arai worked experimentally and began long-standing collaborations with Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake, who would suggest phrases such as 'like clouds', 'like stone' or 'driving rain' for Arai to magic into a representative fabric by using his idiosynecratic weaving techniques.






 Junichi Arai textiles "Tradition and Creation" at Tokyo Opera City Gallery



James Abbe - Photographer


James Abbe's choice of a simple, uncluttered backdrop and soft use of lighting accentuates the seductiveness of Gilda Gray, a dancer in Ziegfeld Follies and other Broadway revues. Like many fashion photographs of its time, it promotes a feeling that we are privy to something intimate - as if Gray has been captured unawares, dreamily caught up in her own thoughts with her eyes turned away from the lens. Taken in Paris in 1924, the photograph seizes the essence og mid-1920s eveningwear - a plumb line dress, pssibly by Lanvin or Paton, in filmy, sensuous fabric trimmed with fringed tiers. In the early twentieth century, American stage and screen actresses. His well-mannered work for American Vogue represented what Alexander Liberman called '... an underlying dream of a world where people act and behave in civilized manner'.
 Famous entertainer Mistinguett who performed at Moulin Rouge, picture by James Abbe 1927.
 The Dolly Sisters, Gelatin silver print
 Utterly famous the mermaid costume photograph
 Charlie Chaplin by James Abbe

indypendent-thinking: (via Vintage Photography: Louise Brooks in Prix de Beauté by James Abbe 1930)